BEAUTY

Easy Day to Night Oily Skin Care Routine Mistakes

An easy oily skin care morning routine starts with a refreshing cleanser, followed by a balancing toner, a powerful serum, a water or gel-based moisturizer, a soothing eye cream, and finishes with a protective sunscreen

An easy skincare routine is a simple, straightforward approach to maintaining healthy skin without using too many products or steps. It focuses on essential actions that are quick and effective, making it manageable for daily use. The goal is to keep your skin clean, hydrated, and protected with minimal effort.

Over the years, skincare routines for oily skin have evolved significantly. Initially, routines often involved harsh products and frequent washing, which stripped the skin of its natural oils causing overproduction of oil as the skin tried to compensate, resulting in even oilier skin and more breakouts.

Mistake #1. Over-cleansing

Washing the face too often dried out the skin and triggered more oil production.

Girls often washed their faces more than twice a day, thinking it would control oil better. A lot of us used strong, foaming cleansers that contained harsh surfactants which removed essential oils and disrupted the skin’s protective barrier. Washing with hot water was common, but it further dried out the skin and exacerbated irritation.

When girls with oily skin washed their faces too much, they actually removed the natural oils that protected their skin.

Some followed complicated routines involving double or triple cleansing, which over-exfoliated and sensitized the skin. These practices led to a cycle of dryness, irritation, and increased oil production as the skin tried to compensate for the loss of natural oils.

Surfactants are ingredients in skincare products that help mix oil and water, create foam, and remove dirt. They have a part that likes water and a part that likes oil, which makes them effective at cleaning.

On product labels, surfactants are often listed by names like:

  • Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine
  • Decyl Glucoside

These names are usually found in the ingredients list on the back of the product.

Without these oils, the skin became dry and unprotected. To fix this, the skin made even more oil, which made it look and feel greasy.

This extra oil also caused irritation. The skin became red, inflamed, and more prone to breakouts. Using harsh cleansers made this problem worse. Over-washing disrupted the skin’s pH balance, leading to more issues like sensitivity and oiliness.

To avoid these problems, it became necessary to to find simpler and gentler oily skin care routines.

Mistake #2. Using harsh products

Products that stripped the skin of essential oils, leading to irritation and increased oiliness, included alcohol-based toners, harsh exfoliants, astringents, and foaming cleansers.

Alcohol-based toners dried out the skin, removing its natural oils. Alcohol-based toners are designed to remove excess oil, tighten pores, and provide a refreshing, clean feeling. They help dissolve ingredients that aren’t water-soluble and drive them deeper into the skin. However, they can be drying and irritating, especially for sensitive or dry skin types.

For oily, acne-prone skin, alcohol-based toners can help reduce oiliness and prevent breakouts. They are most effective when used in moderation and with lower alcohol concentrations. Typically, a toner with less than 10% alcohol is recommended to avoid excessive dryness and irritation.

Harsh exfoliants, whether physical scrubs with rough particles or strong chemical exfoliants, damaged the skin barrier.

Harsh exfoliants, like physical scrubs with rough particles or strong chemical exfoliants, do effectively remove dead skin cells and can be more cost-effective than some cosmetic facial scrubs. However, their aggressive nature can damage the skin barrier, leading to irritation, redness, and increased sensitivity.

For example, physical scrubs with large, rough particles can cause microtears in the skin, compromising its protective barrier. Strong chemical exfoliants, while effective, can over-exfoliate if not used correctly, leading to similar issues.

While these products can be beneficial when used properly, it’s crucial to balance their use with gentler alternatives to maintain skin health. 

But doesn’t the skin heal, especially if the tears are only micro?

Yes, the skin does heal, even from microtears. However, frequent microtears from harsh exfoliants can lead to chronic irritation and a weakened skin barrier. This constant damage can make the skin more sensitive and prone to issues like redness, inflammation, and breakouts.

While the skin’s natural healing process involves repairing these tiny tears, repeated damage can slow down the skin’s natural healing process.

When the skin is constantly damaged, even by microtears, it has to work harder to repair itself. This ongoing stress can lead to chronic inflammation and a weakened skin barrier. Over time, the skin’s ability to heal efficiently diminishes, making it more susceptible to irritation, redness, and breakouts.

When you’re out shopping, it can be tricky to tell the difference between a gentle exfoliant and a harsh one. Here are some common harsh exfoliants you might come across:

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Scrubs with Large, Rough Particles

These often have ingredients like crushed walnut shells or apricot seeds. They can feel gritty and rough on your skin.

High-Concentration Acid Exfoliants

Products with lots of glycolic acid or salicylic acid can be too strong if you’re not careful.

Strong Foaming Cleansers

These cleansers usually have harsh surfactants that strip away your skin’s natural oils.

Exfoliating Brushes or Tools

Devices with stiff bristles or rough surfaces can cause tiny tears if you use them too aggressively.

Astringents, like witch hazel or those with high salicylic acid content, over-dried the skin. Astringents are products that tighten your skin and reduce oil.

Three more astringents you may have noticed on your products’ ingredients list are:

  • Isopropyl Alcohol
  • Calamine
  • Green or Black Tea

For oily skin, “high” salicylic acid content is usually above 2%.

The 2% concentration of salicylic acid is effective and safe for individual products like wash-offs, creams, moisturizers, and serums.

It doesn’t mean you should combine multiple products with 2% salicylic acid, as that could lead to over-exfoliation and irritation. Instead, choose one product with 2% salicylic acid to incorporate into your routine.

Over the years, many skincare products for oily skin have included ingredients like isopropyl alcohol, calamine, green or black tea, and witch hazel.

These were often used in toners and astringents to reduce oiliness. However, they frequently caused more harm than good. Isopropyl alcohol, for instance, was great at cutting through oil but often left the skin excessively dry and irritated.

Calamine, while soothing, sometimes over-dried the skin, prompting it to produce even more oil to compensate.

Green and black tea were generally gentler but could still cause dryness if overused. Witch hazel, a popular choice for tightening pores, often led to dryness and irritation when used too much.

In homemade skincare routines, these ingredients were sometimes used in high concentrations or mixed with other harsh components, leading to similar problems.

DIY toners and cleansers with isopropyl alcohol stripped the skin of its natural oils, causing dryness and irritation.

Homemade masks with calamine could over-dry the skin, leading to increased oil production. Green and black tea were used in scrubs and toners, which were generally safe but could cause dryness if not balanced with moisturizing ingredients.

Witch hazel in homemade toners often resulted in dryness and irritation when used in high amounts.

These experiences highlighted the importance of balanced, gentle skincare routines to avoid damaging the skin.

Foaming cleansers, especially those with strong foaming agents, removed too much oil, causing dryness and irritation.

Foaming cleansers, especially those with strong foaming agents like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), often removed too much oil from the skin, causing dryness and irritation.

These surfactants created a nice lather but stripped the skin of its natural oils.

People used these cleansers multiple times a day, thinking it would help control oil, but it actually made things worse.

The skin would get dry and irritated, and then produce even more oil to make up for it.

To prevent these problems, it would have been helpful to follow up with a good moisturizer right after cleansing.

This would have helped restore the skin’s natural oil balance and kept it hydrated, preventing the skin from feeling the need to overcompensate by producing more oil.

Unfortunately, many people skipped this step, leading to a cycle of dryness and increased oiliness.

That’s how these products contributed to a cycle of over-drying and increased oil production as the skin tried to compensate for the loss of its natural protective barrier.

Mistake #3. Unstrategically skipping moisturizer

Believing that oily skin didn’t need hydration caused the skin to produce more oil to compensate.

It’s a common misconception that oily skin doesn’t need hydration. While oily skin does produce more sebum (oil), this doesn’t necessarily mean it’s well-hydrated.

Hydration refers to the water content in your skin, whereas oil is about the sebum produced by your sebaceous glands.

Skipping moisturizer can actually lead to your skin producing even more oil. When your skin feels dry, it can overcompensate by producing more sebum to try and protect itself. This can lead to a cycle of increased oil production and potential breakouts.

Using a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer can help balance your skin’s hydration levels without making it feel greasy.

I understand, but isn’t it already hydrated from the water during cleansing, and then afterwards oiled by sebum?

Cleansing your skin with water can provide some temporary hydration, but it doesn’t lock in moisture effectively. After cleansing, your skin might feel hydrated, but this effect is short-lived as water evaporates quickly from the skin’s surface.

Sebum, the natural oil produced by your skin, does help to protect and moisturize the skin. However, it primarily forms a barrier to prevent moisture loss rather than providing hydration itself. This means that while sebum can help keep your skin from drying out, it doesn’t add water content to your skin.

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Unless your skin produces sebum quick enough to sela in the moisture from the water still on your skin after a good cleanse, using a moisturizer after cleansing is a lot faster and more reliable to add and seal in the hydration, effectively maintaining the skin’s moisture balance. 

This is especially important for oily skin, because when your damp skin is drying, waiting for sebum production to be enough, the dryness, if it’s not something your skin is used to, will be interpreted as over-dryness and overproduction of sebum will occur.

The only time it’s right for you to skin moisturizing is if you intend to gently and gradually wean your skin off of topical moisturisers until it has naturally deciphered the correct amounts of oils that your skin needs after cleansing for an all-day moisture retention.

And you’ll still need to wear sunscreen, which brings us to the next common mistake people with oily skin have been making, aggravating their skin issues instead of solving them.

Mistake #4. Ignoring sunscreen

Sun exposure without sunscreen can have several progressive effects on oily skin, especially during the formative years between ages 14 to 19. Here’s a detailed look at what can happen:

Immediate Effects

  • Sunburn: Even oily skin is susceptible to sunburn. Without sunscreen, UV rays can cause redness, pain, and peeling, which can be particularly uncomfortable and damaging.
  • Increased Oil Production: Sun exposure can initially dry out the skin, prompting sebaceous glands to produce more oil to compensate. This can lead to an even oilier complexion.

Short-Term Effects

  • Breakouts: The combination of increased oil production and clogged pores from sweat and environmental pollutants can lead to more frequent breakouts, including pimples and blackhead.
  • Hyperpigmentation: UV exposure can cause dark spots and uneven skin tone, particularly in areas where acne has healed. This is because the sun stimulates melanin production, leading to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Long-Term Effects

  • Premature Aging: Prolonged sun exposure accelerates the breakdown of collagen and elastin, leading to early signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. This process is known as photoaging.
  • Persistent Acne Scars: Without protection, UV rays can worsen acne scars, making them more pronounced and harder to treat. The sun can darken these scars, making them more noticeable.
  • Skin Texture Changes: Over time, repeated sun damage can lead to rough, uneven skin texture. This is due to the thickening of the outer layer of the skin as it tries to protect itself from further damage.

Long-Term Health Risks

  • Actinic Keratosis: These are rough, scaly patches on the skin caused by years of sun exposure. They can be precancerous and may develop into skin cancer if not treated.
  • Skin Cancer: The most serious risk of prolonged sun exposure without protection is the increased likelihood of developing skin cancer, including melanoma, basal cell carcinoma, and squamous cell carcinoma.

When it comes to choosing a sunscreen for oily skin, it’s important to find one that protects without adding extra shine or greasiness. Here are some great options and why they work well for naturally oily skin:

  • Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen SPF 40: This sunscreen is completely oil-free and feels weightless on the skin. It doubles as a primer, which helps control shine and keeps your skin looking matte throughout the day.
  • EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46: This one is known for its lightweight formula, making it perfect for sensitive and acne-prone skin. It contains niacinamide, which helps reduce inflammation and control oil production, keeping your skin balanced.
  • La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid: Offering a matte finish, this sunscreen helps control shine and keeps your skin looking fresh. It’s also non-comedogenic, so it won’t clog your pores, which is a big plus for oily skin.
  • CeraVe Ultra-Light Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30: A great drugstore option, this sunscreen provides hydration without the greasy feel. It contains ceramides that help restore the skin barrier and lock in moisture, preventing your skin from overproducing oil.
  • Neutrogena Oil-Free Facial Moisturizer SPF 15: Ideal for all-day wear, this sunscreen is lightweight and non-comedogenic. It offers sun protection without making your skin feel heavy or greasy.

Many girls with oily skin still tend to skip sunscreen.

Possible reasons for not wearing sunscreen:

Fear of Greasiness

One of the primary reasons people with oily skin avoid sunscreen is the fear of greasiness.

Breakouts and Acne Scars

Traditional sunscreens, with their thick and heavy formulations, often contained ingredients that could clog pores. For someone with oily skin, this was a recipe for disaster. Clogged pores can lead to breakouts, including pimples, blackheads, and whiteheads. 

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When these breakouts occur frequently, they can leave behind acne scars and hyperpigmentation, making the skin’s texture uneven and more challenging to manage.

Blackheads and Exfoliation Struggles

Blackheads are a common issue for those with oily skin. They form when pores become clogged with a mix of sebum and dead skin cells. 

The thick, occlusive nature of some sunscreens can exacerbate this problem by trapping more debris in the pores. This not only leads to more blackheads but also makes the skin feel congested and in need of regular exfoliation.

Exfoliating oily skin is crucial to keep pores clear and prevent breakouts, but over-exfoliation is what those sunscreens would somewhat seem to need one to resort to.

This created a vicious cycle where the skin becomes more oily and prone to breakouts, making it even harder to find a balance.

Problem solved!

Fortunately, modern sunscreens have evolved to address these issues. Many are now formulated to be lightweight, non-comedogenic (meaning they won’t clog pores), and specifically designed for oily and acne-prone skin. These sunscreens often contain ingredients like niacinamide, which helps to reduce inflammation and control oil production, making them much more suitable for daily use without the fear of breakouts

Misconceptions About Sun Protection

There’s a common misconception that oily skin is naturally more protected from the sun due to the extra layer of sebum.

Some people believe that this natural oil acts as a barrier against UV rays, reducing the need for additional sun protection.

However, this isn’t true.

Sebum does not provide adequate protection against UV damage, and oily skin is just as susceptible to sunburn, premature aging, and skin cancer as any other skin type.

This misconception can lead to a false sense of security and a lack of proper sun care.

Lack of Suitable Products

In the past, there were fewer sunscreen options specifically formulated for oily skin.

Many sunscreens were designed with a one-size-fits-all approach, which didn’t take into account the unique needs of different skin types.

This lack of suitable products meant that people with oily skin often had to choose between sun protection and comfort.

Fortunately, the skincare industry has evolved, and there are now many lightweight, non-comedogenic sunscreens available that cater to oily skin. However, the lingering perception of limited options can still influence people’s choices.

Forgetting to Apply

Lastly, people with oily skin might simply forget to apply sunscreen.

Unlike those with dry skin, who often feel an immediate need for additional moisture, individuals with oily skin might not feel the same urgency.

The absence of a dry, tight feeling can make it easier to overlook the importance of sunscreen. Additionally, the daily skincare routine for oily skin can already be quite extensive, with cleansers, toners, and treatments, making it easy to skip sunscreen as an extra step.

These mistakes highlighted the need for a concise, balanced routine that cleanses, hydrates, and protects the skin without overloading it with products. This approach helps maintain healthy, manageable skin without triggering excess oil production.

So. I have a clear morning skin care routine for oily skin.
What should I do to help my skin stay fresh during the day wherever I am?

Here are some tips to help you maintain that fresh feeling:

1. Blotting Papers

Carry blotting papers with you. These thin sheets can quickly absorb excess oil without disturbing your makeup or skincare. Just gently press them against your skin whenever you feel shiny.

2. Use a Mattifying Powder

A lightweight, translucent mattifying powder can help control shine. Apply it in the morning and touch up as needed throughout the day to keep your skin looking matte.

3. Hydrating Mist

A hydrating mist can refresh your skin without adding oil. Look for mists that contain ingredients like aloe vera or rose water. They can help soothe your skin and keep it hydrated.

4. Oil-Free Makeup

If you wear makeup, opt for oil-free and non-comedogenic products. These are less likely to clog your pores and contribute to excess oil production.

5. Stay Hydrated

Drinking sufficient water daily is crucial for maintaining skin hydration from within. Consistent hydration effectively regulates oil production.

6. Avoid Touching Your Face

Try to not touch your face with your hands at all during the day. This goes for anyone else who may touch your face, including friends or your partner. Hands transfer dirt and oil to your skin, which lead to breakouts.

7. Quick Cleanse

If possible, cleanse your cheeks, chin and forehead, especially during hot seasons, with a gentle, oil-free carry on cleanser and cool running water to remove excess oil and impurities that have accumulated.

8. Healthy Diet

A balanced diet loaded with fruits, vegetables, and omega-3 fatty acids significantly enhances your skin’s health and effectively controls oiliness.

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